Market Research Weaving in Bhutan

When I arrived at Paro airport my guide greeted me with a white Kadar(a ceremonial scarf)and that was just the start of an amazing experience involving honoured traditions which survive to this day in Bhutan. The purity of the Kadar stands for a blessing that the Gods may descend and bless you with their divine presence and is just one of the many ways textiles play an important part in the culture of Bhutan. The historical context of weaving in Bhutan is intrinsically based on the religious belief and unique history of Bhutan. The Buddist tradition combined with their guiding philosophy of Gross National Happiness results in a country living in harmony with nature and the evolution of a sanctuary high in the Himalayas. On my visit I witnessed the effect of these qualities on every day life. Traditional dress is not for special occasions but part of life and this also involves a proud demeanour walking with hands clasped behind the back. I cannot recall anyone or anything in a hurry! But one must remember that the population of Bhutan is only 700,000 and 72% of the country is covered by forest. Bhutanese men wear a knee length Gho which crosses at the front and the excess material is pulled up and tucked in at the back to form a large box pleat then tied round the waist by a cloth belt known as a Kera. The Gho is often of a striped or checked close weave cotton yarn. The seperate cuff is white and dates back to the time when the Master hid a relic in the cuff of his coat trying to escape his enemies. The women wear ankle length dresses known as a Kira made of brightly coloured fine woven cloth often with embroidered traditional patterns. The short jacket worn over the skirt is called a tdego and can be beautifully woven silk with embroidery. The folds of the kira form a pleat and with the belt a small pocket is made. The wearing of this traditional costume also allows a silent way of communicating such as a lady will stand smooth her kira adjust the pleat and it will be interpreted that she is ready to leave. The tradition of weaving is maintained along with 12 other traditional crafts, painting, carving, sculpture, calligraphy, carpentry, smithing, bamboo work, embroidery, pottery, masonary, paper and incense production;at the Zorig Chusum( National Art College) in Thimpu Bhutan's capital city. The school maintains traditional methods such as thanka painting which hasn't changed in 400 years and are scrolls intrically painted depicting images of Buddha and other deities. The embroidered images on the clothes are usually relevant to the Buddhist tradition such as the cooperation of life with the elephant who provides shade, the monkey fertility, the rabbit water and the peacock the seed. The College is part of the amazing progress in education since the 1960's when the secular school system was introduced by the Third King of Bhutan who set his country on a path of modernisation. As I will discuss later this path has also led to significant challenges for a country trying to learn from the mistakes of countries where Gross National Product is the main objective.